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NEWMARKET. For those who haven’t heard of Wynn & Thayne before, can you give us a quick rundown of your business and what you offer?
ZAYYAR. We are a second-hand watch dealer specialising in vintage and neo-vintage timepieces. Our expertise is on brands such as Rolex, Cartier and Patek Philippe. In addition to buying and selling, we offer a highly tailored sourcing service for clients in search of specific or hard-to-find references. Whether someone is purchasing their first watch or refining a long-established collection, our aim is to help them make informed, confident decisions.
N. What first sparked your interest in watches?
Z. It began with digital Casio then mechanical Seiko, but the real turning point came when I began searching for my first Swiss watch. What was meant to be a single purchase quickly became an ongoing pursuit. What continues to draw me in is the idea that a watch is far more than a tool for telling time. It can carry sentimental value, be handed down from one generation to the next, and reflects a chapter in someone’s life – particularly when it is second-hand.
N. How did your passion for watches evolve?
Z. Like many collectors, I began by buying and selling watches to support and grow my own collection. I identified a gap in the market for a business centred on the vintage and neo-vintage era – a space where trust, condition, and provenance are paramount.
Before this, I was working in banking and considering a side project. I launched the business in November 2021 with just five watches listed on the website. The first sold the very next day, and that gave me the motivation and confidence to pursue something bigger. Within six months it grew into a full time operation.
N. Can you tell us about the process of finding the perfect watch?
Z. It begins with identifying what you are drawn to – and just as importantly, what you are not. We encourage all clients to try on watches that align with their taste. More often than not, they end up selecting something entirely different from the collection. Wearing a watch on the wrist versus viewing it in photos can be a very different experience.
When it comes to sourcing, we aim to gather as much detail as possible to refine the brief – from specific models and references to production eras and aesthetic preferences. From there, it becomes a process of patience and expertise. We draw on our network of private collectors, dealers, and trusted contacts to secure a piece that aligns with the client’s vision. Each watch undergoes comprehensive authentication, any necessary servicing, and careful preparation to ensure it is ready to wear. Ultimately, our aim is to ensure that each client feels confident, and genuinely satisfied with their choice, for many years to come.
N. With dupes and fakes on the rise, what’s the biggest giveaway that something isn’t authentic?
Z. Every watch undergoes a comprehensive, authentication process. We assess serial numbers, movement architecture, dial printing, and case construction – cross-referencing each component against what is correct for the specific reference. I have spent years honing my eye to detect not only inauthentic parts, but also service components, period-correct details, and so-called “frankenstein” watches.
Over time, I have compiled binders of research – from verified articles, internal brand materials to expert commentary – to support ongoing verification. That said, nothing compares to hands-on experience. Having inspected hundreds if not thousands of examples of the same references, I have developed a familiarity that allows me to catch subtle discrepancies others might miss. Our watchmaker, who formerly worked closely with Rolex, brings deep technical insight into movements and internal mechanics. Counterfeit watches have become increasingly sophisticated, but experience and research still reveal the truth.
N. What’s one piece you’re still chasing for your own collection?
Z. This tends to change over time, but one watch I hope to add to my collection very soon is the Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3940. Produced from 1985 through to the early 2000s, it stands as a landmark piece – one that reaffirmed Patek’s commitment to complicated watchmaking during a period when the Swiss watch industry was still recovering from the impact of the quartz crisis. What draws me to the 3940 is the balance it achieves in both form and function. Its slim case, perfectly proportioned dial, and micro-rotor calibre come together in what many consider to be one of the most refined perpetual calendars ever produced.
N. Trends must have a huge influence on watch popularity. Are there any brands or models that have surprised you with their rise?
Z. Absolutely. I have seen a shift in what clients are seeking. There is growing interest in brands that sit outside the mainstream – names like Breguet, Piaget, and Grand Seiko are now coming up more frequently in discussions. This is not to suggest that demand for Rolex or Patek Philippe has diminished; rather, collectors are increasingly exploring interesting references or variations that are less well known. Cartier, in particular, has seen a remarkable rise in popularity over the past few years, especially among our female clients. It has always been a core brand for us since the beginning, but it is now keeping pace with our Rolex sales. Iconic models such as the Tank, Panthère, and Santos rarely remain in stock for long.
N. What’s the most unique or rare piece you’ve ever come across?
Z. I have been fortunate to handle many rare and exceptional pieces throughout my career. Each time I come across something truly special, there is a genuine sense of excitement. At the time of writing this, we have a particularly rare Rolex Day-Date Ref. 1803 featuring an oxblood ‘Stella’ dial – a striking and highly collectible configuration. The term ‘Stella’ refers to a series of high-gloss, lacquered dials produced in vivid colours during the 1970s and early 1980s, primarily for Middle Eastern and Asian markets. These dials were prone to cracking due to their delicate enamel-like finish, and many were replaced during servicing, making surviving original examples increasingly rare. They represent one of the most expressive and unconventional chapters in Rolex’s design history.
While I would not consider it the rarest piece I have handled, what sets this example apart is its completeness – it comes with its box and paperwork. ‘Stella’ dials are exceptionally scarce in New Zealand.
N. How have smart watches affected the need for a traditional watch?
Z. If anything, smart watches have helped expand interest in watches overall. They have made the idea of wearing a timepiece more accessible, particularly for those new to the category. In many cases, a smart watch is the first step – and from there, people often develop a curiosity about traditional, mechanical watches.
There is absolutely a time and place for a smartwatch – I wear mine to the gym or out on a hike - but it is not what I would choose for a dinner out, a wedding, or daily wear. Traditional watches serve a different purpose beyond functionality. Ultimately, I support anything that gets a watch on someone’s wrist. The more people who wear and appreciate watches – in any form – the better.
N. We’ve seen a big shift toward quiet luxury, has this had an impact on watch sales or have watches always naturally aligned with that aesthetic?
Z. Certain watch brands have always aligned naturally with the concept of quiet luxury. A well-chosen, understated timepiece can speak volumes without ever being ostentatious. Brands like Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, and Vacheron Constantin are often associated with the idea of ‘stealth wealth’. There is growing interest and sales in independent watchmaking, where a small team – sometimes a single artisan – produces watches in extremely small quantities. Names such as Philippe Dufour, Daniel Roth, Laurent Ferrier, and Naoya Hida exemplify this approach. To me, this represents the purest expression of quiet luxury within the industry. In many ways, it is similar to commissioning a bespoke suit, a couture gown, or a custom-built car – something created specifically for you, with care, precision, and intention.
N. What are the trends you notice across the different generations?
Z. Rather than generational differences, I tend to see patterns between first-time buyers and seasoned collectors.
First-time buyers are typically looking for a watch they can wear every day, or they are purchasing their first luxury or vintage timepiece. Their focus is often on practical considerations – case size, movement reliability, and overall versatility – rather than aesthetic details or historical nuance. The outcome they are seeking is everyday wearability. In contrast, collectors are usually looking to refine or expand their collections. Whether it is their fourth or fourteenth piece, the conversation shifts toward more intricate details – patina, fonts, period-correct parts, movement variations, and provenance.
N. For someone who doesn’t have a lot of disposable income but wants to invest in one quality piece, what would you recommend and why?
Z. As obvious as it may sound, my first piece of advice is to buy what you like – not just what everyone else is wearing.
A great starting point could be a vintage Omega Seamaster. They are relatively affordable with an Omega movement and versatile enough to suit a range of occasions. Similarly, a 34mm stainless steel Rolex offers tremendous value. You can dress it up or down – wear it on a leather strap for a different look. These watches are built to last. For women, much of Cartier’s catalogue is still within reach. These pieces are iconic, elegant, and hold their value well. Many of the alternatives in that price range simply do not offer the same level of heritage, design pedigree, or long-term appeal.
N. What’s next for Wynn & Thayne? Is there anything you want to achieve by the end of 2025?
Z. I am actively exploring ways to enhance both the showroom and online experience – including the introduction of soft goods, accessories, and hard-to-find parts. These are areas where we have seen growing interest from our clients, and I see potential to expand our offering in a thoughtful, curated way.
I am also focused on strengthening relationships with our clients. Some of my favourite moments are spent face to face in the showroom, and I want to create more opportunities for those kinds of meaningful interactions.
Wynn & Thayne, Kent Street, Newmarket
This article was from the Spring 2025 issue of NEWMARKET. magazine, to view the latest magazine, click here.
Tags: Interviews
