KOWTOW

Founded in Wellington and firmly rooted in Newmarket, we caught up with Kowtow’s head designer, Dayne Johnston, as he returned to his old stomping ground. He reflects on his transition to the ethically made, sustainable fashion brand, his thoughtful design approach, and on finding his place within the brand.

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NEWMARKET. Can you tell us a bit about your journey and how you came be head designer for Kowtow?

DAYNE: Becoming Head Designer at Kowtow meant moving back to Wellington in June 2023, which was both exciting and a little daunting. I studied Fashion Design at Wellington Polytechnic (now Massey University) in the mid 90’s, so in some ways it felt like a return –  but stepping into a new role at Kowtow was definitely a fresh challenge. My background is in menswear and shifting into womenswear required a new way of thinking. But that challenge is what makes it interesting – it brings an evolution to the clothes, a newness and freshness.

Kowtow was confident that I could do it, and I really valued that trust. The team here was incredible in helping me understand the brand’s ethos, its design language and the way things are done. While the shift from menswear to womenswear has been an adjustment, I do think my approach brings a certain utilitarian sensibility – a menswear lens that aligns with Kowtow’s design philosophy. The focus on fabric and form at Kowtow and the commitment to sustainability that really resonates with me.

N. Where did your interest in fashion begin?

D. Fashion has always been everything to me. I knew from a very young age that this was what I wanted to do and a big part of that came from my mother, Helen. She sews and adores clothes so I was surrounded by that passion early on.

My parents owned a gift store and right next door was a haberdashery and clothing store. I ended up doing an internship with Janice and Carrick Jones at their store ‘Jones' of Wānaka’, which was a huge turning point. It gave me the opportunity to learn about fabric, fashion, window dressing and craft in a really hands-on way. Growing up in Wānaka, that experience had a massive influence on me.

By the time I was in 6th form, I was already fully committed to pursuing fashion. I even took a correspondence course in textiles and fashion, which just reinforced that this was the path I wanted to follow.

N. What was it about Kowtow that appealed the most?

D. It was really a combination of the environmental awareness and the design aesthetic. Everything at Kowtow is so considered – from the details of the production process to the way the teams work together in the studio. Even the technology used in the workroom is forward-thinking.

I noticed the attention to detail in the atelier, in the stores, in the way things are designed and made. It was a whole new way of working in fashion, one that made complete sense to me.

I also started to ask myself ‘how can I participate in fashion in a way that’s mindful?’ Kowtow answered that for me. There’s something incredibly calming about working within a framework that aligns with your values. You know you’re contributing to something bigger, something meaningful.

N. You have been with Kowtow since July 2023 but this February 2025 collection, Landscapes, is your first lead collection, where did you look for inspiration for this collection?

D. The collection is titled Landscapes and it’s about both the landscapes that surround us and the landscapes within us– the people, places, and memories that shape who we are.

N. Do you have a favourite piece from the collection?

D. One of my favourite pieces in the collection is the Lineup Jersey, which takes inspiration from a traditional rugby jersey. It’s constructed with contrast sleeve stripes and a natural greige (undyed raw organic cotton) collar, giving it a classic yet refined feel. It’s from the men’s collection, but it has that effortless versatility – it looks just as great on a woman.  

The Lineup Jersey

N. Can you take us through your design process?

D. I always start with a definite idea of what we’re vibing on – something that feels meaningful to the collection. It’s important to have a strong foundation, a central focus that anchors everything. For me, that usually begins with one idea – a piece of nature or a specific work that resonates. From there, I build out the palette, the mood, and the feeling of the collection. Keeping it singular allows the details to evolve naturally while maintaining a clear direction. It’s about distilling inspiration into something wearable, something that feels both considered and effortless.

At the same time, the process is incredibly organic and collaborative. As a design team, we all bring our own ideas to the table and I bring that together into a collection. I love going vintage shopping – not just for inspiration but to study how things were constructed in the past and think about how to bring those details into the future.

The way we work with our technical team is also a huge part of the process; there’s always a dialogue that helps us solve design challenges and push ideas forward. Kowtow is an amazing resource in that way everyone is skilled at what they do, and that level of collaboration makes the work stronger. It’s never just one perspective – the conversation is what sparks the ideas.

N. Can you take us through the protea fabric and the process for your prints?

D. When I first started at Kowtow, a massive bunch of flowers arrived. When I first saw them, I thought they were for the store but then I realised they’d been placed on my desk. They were from the mother of a former intern I mentored. We became close friends, and the flowers were from her – a really supportive gesture.

Around that time, we were developing new prints and we decided to use the protea flowers from that bouquet as a starting point, this was a collaboration with former Kowtow Textile designer Phoebe Tims. Together we took photos of the flowers, experimented with the images, cutting them and collaging them together, enlarging the proportions. It became a study of the bouquet, almost like capturing a moment in time. This idea ended up looking great and made it into the collection and features on a Dress and t-shirt, these pieces will drop in May.

N. ‘Landscapes’ also includes an extended range in your menswear line, What was the key driver for this?

D. Kowtow clothes have always had a natural appeal to men, but this was about refining the fit for a more precise male silhouette.

The design philosophy remains the same – considered, utilitarian and timeless but we wanted to create shapes that felt effortless and intuitive for men to wear, creating an everyday wardrobe in fairtrade organic cotton.

N. What are your favourite pieces from the men’s range?

D. I’m really drawn to the sky blue poplin of the Lewis Shirt. I love the traditional, almost nostalgic feel of this colour, and I think it works so beautifully when mixed with the bright red drill pieces and the earthy denim. It creates this interesting contrast, both fresh and grounded, that really speaks to the mood of the collection.

N. What has been your biggest win so far?

D. The positive response to this collection. When we finally released Landscapes, it was a huge moment. The designs had been in the works for 18 months and so much had happened in that time – moving to Wellington, immersing myself in Kowtow, and really finding my place within the brand.

Creating Landscapes was a journey, both professionally and personally. It feels like I’ve been able to put my stamp on Kowtow in a way that still respects its ethos but also brings something new. The pieces in the collection feel very me, and seeing them out in the world, being worn and appreciated has been incredibly rewarding. A key inspiration was a quote from the French filmmaker Agnès Varda:

“If we opened people up, we’d find landscapes, we’d find beaches… memory is like sand in my hand.”

This line, from her film The Beaches of Agnès, really set the tone for the collection. We printed it out and kept it in the atelier throughout the design process as a way to ground our thinking. It speaks to the way memories and places leave imprints on us, just as clothing carries its own story over time. That idea of connection – to nature, to people, to the past and present became the foundation for the collection’s mood, palette, and silhouettes.

N. Ethically made and sustainable clothing is the core ethos for Kowtow, and minimising impact on the environment. Can you tell us more about the processes that goes into this?

D. I am truly in awe of all the steps that Kowtow has put into place for the betterment of the planet. We use a single fibre – certified Fairtrade organic cotton, which is at the heart of everything we do. Having a mono material as a base resource and avoiding things like zips or plastic elements, forces you to really push your creativity. My job, in essence, is to make the cotton work in ways that create texture, shape, and depth – ensuring nothing feels flat or lacks interest.

Our patternmakers play a huge role in making sure we minimise waste. They create layplans that ensure we’re using as much of the fabric as possible in the design. If a design is flagged as wasteful, it gets re-worked to make sure we’re using at least 76% of the fabric within the garment. This is something we approach with a very critical eye, nothing is left to chance and we’re always looking for ways to improve.

 

N. The brand also recently launched  ‘The Collective’, can you tell us a little about this programme? Kowtow is driving circularity with its preloved / second hard ‘Relove’ section, proving that well thought out, well designed and well-made clothing can be passed on to have a second life, can you tell us a bit about this and the catalyst to launch this offering?

D. The Collective is an exciting evolution of Kowtow’s loyalty programme. It’s about encouraging our community to make conscious clothing choices.

The programme goes beyond just rewarding purchases; it rewards our community for taking part in a circular fashion system. Members now earn Collective points not just for buying new items but also for taking actions that extend the life of their wardrobes. This includes using our repair and regeneration services, as well as buying and selling secondhand Kowtow garments.

One of the standout features of The Collective is the launch of Relove, a community-led platform that allows our members to buy and sell secondhand Kowtow. It’s designed to make circular fashion easier and more accessible – both buyers and sellers earn Collective points for participating.

Ultimately, the mission of The Collective is to challenge the norm and shift the standard toward mindful consumption. It’s about becoming custodians of the garments we create and promoting a regenerative approach to fashion. By joining The Collective, our community is helping to make that vision a reality.

N. What is the most loved piece in your wardrobe?

D. I have recently purchased a pair of the Riley jeans from the new collection. These are the perfect jean shape, we worked hard with the technical team to get the fit right. They are in black denim with contrast greige topstitching and feature a relaxed waist with an internal drawcord. They draw inspiration from the 90’s with their loose leg shape and I love how the silhouette stacks at the ankle. I cannot take them off and I think they will become my daily uniform and most loved Kowtow piece.

N. What’s next for Kowtow?

D. Right now, I’m working on the collection for the second half of 2026. We’ve made some exciting advances in creating new weights and feels with our Fairtrade organic cotton which I’m really looking forward to bringing to life.

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KOWTOW // 6 York Street

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