Reading Time: 9 Minutes
By Francesca Ritchie.
NEWMARKET. Can you tell us a little about Yu Mei and what led towards starting the business?
JESSIE. Yu Mei was founded in 2015 with a simple goal, to design bags that could keep up with the realities of modern life. I couldn’t find a bag that combined the functionality of a sports backpack with the refined aesthetic I wanted to carry, so I made one myself. What started as a personal project in a workshop in South Dunedin has grown into a B Corp certified, international brand stocked everywhere from David Jones to Bergdorf Goodman. Our philosophy is built around three values, Utility, Regeneration, and Stealth Luxury, and every design is created to simplify life’s complexities for forward-thinking individuals.
N. How did you develop your modular, organized style and what user pain points were you aiming to solve with this?
J. The modular “Art of Packing” system came directly from our community’s experience. Everyone has their own daily kit, laptop, chargers, diary, lunch, gym gear, and traditional handbags weren’t designed with that in mind. Our system creates a family of bags and organisers that slot together so people can move through their day seamlessly. It removes the mental overhead of switching between work, social and family life, while retaining a sense of understated luxury.
N. The brand has a focus on design and engineering to ensure a premium quality, and unique look. Can you tell us a little about your design process?
J. Design at Yu Mei begins based on a person close to me that has a need that’s not being met. We ask the questions: what does this bag need to carry, and how can we make it work beautifully? From there, we refine proportions and edit down until nothing unnecessary remains. Each design goes through community testing at our Club Yu Mei Design Workshops before it enters production, that process of co-design has become one of our strengths.
N. What are the key/signature elements you look to include when designing a new piece?
J. You’ll see recurring codes across the range: clean lines, triangular seam detailing, modular organisation, and a deep focus on proportions. Materiality is also key, our New Zealand Deer Nappa leather is instantly recognisable for its buttery soft hand feel. Every design must strike a balance of utility, longevity, and quiet luxury.
N. When you first launched the brand, you were producing the bags by hand, how did you learn the technical side of making these pieces?
J. I learnt leathercraft from Bill Drake, one of New Zealand’s last remaining leather craftsmen, who generously passed on his technical knowledge when I was starting out. Those early years were all about learning through making, experimenting with construction methods and materials until the designs matched the vision. That foundation in craft still underpins everything we do.
N. Yu Mei prioritises using premium materials, what process you go through to ensure it meets your standards?
J. Deer nappa is our signature because it’s both luxurious and regenerative. It’s a by-product of the South Island venison industry, hides that would otherwise be waste. The deer are farmed under the Five Freedoms, with full traceability back to farm level. It has the strength of cowhide but the softness of lambskin, making it perfect for everyday carry. We only work with certified tanneries that meet the highest standards for environmental and ethical practice.
N. How do you assess the environmental footprint of your materials compared to conventional leathers?
J. We require Leather Working Group certification for all tanneries that produce our leathers, ensuring reduced water and energy usage, safe chemical management, and responsible waste treatment. Our manufacturing partners must also be SEDEX certified, which audits social and ethical business practices. Compared to conventional leathers, our deer nappa has a far lower footprint, as it utilises an existing by-product rather than creating demand for new resources.
N. Consumers are increasingly demanding sustainability. As a B Corp Certified brand, can you tell us about how this has influenced your operations?
J. Becoming a B Corp in 2024 formalised what had always been central to Yu Mei, balancing profit with purpose. It means we are held accountable to high standards of social and environmental performance, from paying a Living Wage to diverting waste through our Archive Events and Buyback Initiative. Certification has sharpened our focus, pushing us to keep improving and to be transparent about both our progress and our challenges.
N. How have customers responded to your circularity events?
J. The response has been incredible. Our annual Archive Event, where we repurpose offcuts, rehome second-hand bags, and experiment with new ideas. has become a highlight for our community. In 2022, we diverted over 3,800 square feet of leather from landfill and rehomed 67 preloved bags. Customers love the chance to be part of that circular story, and the events always sell out.
N. Can you tell us about the inspiration behind your latest collection?
J. This season marks a new chapter for us as we celebrate ten years of Yu Mei. Instead of following the traditional seasonal model, we’ve introduced Leather 25, a continuous collection released in monthly Editions. Edition 01, which launches this spring/summer, is about distilling a decade of learning into a more mature design language. We’ve refined our core silhouettes with tailoring details, layered textures and reengineered hardware, creating pieces that feel both familiar and elevated. The palette draws directly from the landscapes of Wellington’s South Coast, where I grew up, burnt red rocks, sun-worn ochres, and the dry stillness of the inland earth. Those tones come to life in rich suede and soft lambskin, alongside our signature deer nappa. It’s about grounding luxury in material honesty, and creating bags that are timeless companions for contemporary life.
N. What has been the biggest challenge you have faced in the business?
J. Our biggest challenge has been ensuring the long-term supply of New Zealand deer nappa, which sits at the heart of Yu Mei. It’s a byproduct of the venison industry, naturally scarce, and difficult to source in volume due to the smaller size and variation of hides. Rather than working against those limitations, we’ve designed with the character of the material, its softness, tactility, and garment-like drape. Protecting this supply has been central to our journey, as it underpins both our design language and our regenerative values.
N. The iconic Braidy bag has become an essential piece of most Kiwi girls’ wardrobes and an Instagram sensation, what do you think drove the popularity of this piece?
J. The Braidy was designed to solve a real problem: carrying a laptop, water bottle, lunch and more in one bag. Its triangular seam, inspired by a plastic supermarket bag, became a design signature. The cult following came from its authenticity, designed for Laura Braid, a law student, it resonated with students and professionals alike. Scarcity and limited editions also fuelled demand, and its presence in wardrobes over the past 10 years has cemented its place as a modern classic.
N. What is your favourite piece across all of your collections?
J. I’m partial to the Bobby Bag this season, it’s named after my one-year-old, which makes it especially personal. It was designed for Australian Fashion Week and debuted on the runway just two days before he was born. Beyond the sentiment, I love its proportions and the way it balances function with a softer, sculptural feel.
N. You’ve been in business now for 10 years. What are some key takeaways from this journey?
J. That utility never goes out of style. That a community will build around you if you listen to them. And that being from New Zealand is not a limitation, but a strength, it has shaped our perspective, grounded us in regeneration, and given us a unique voice on the global stage.
N. How do you keep your team working as one unit across different locations around the country?
J. We operate as a tight collective. Our Lounges are more than stores; they’re spaces for collaboration and community. Regular team briefings, shared design workshops, and cross-functional projects keep everyone aligned. It’s about fostering manaakitanga, a sense of care and purpose, across every part of the business.
N. Yu Mei is stocked in major retailers in Australasia and internationally, did you find being a New Zealand brand was helpful or well received by these international retailers?
J. Yes, buyers respond to the uniqueness of our perspective. New Zealand’s regenerative story, our deer nappa provenance, and our community driven brand set us apart. When Bergdorf Goodman ranged us after Paris Fashion Week, it validated that our South Pacific roots and access to unique materials are an asset, not a barrier.
N. Have you seen a move towards more digital purchasing or is the priority still a physical store?
J. Both matter. E-commerce gives us reach and immediacy, but our Lounges are where people experience the brand in its fullest form. Buying a bag can be ceremonial, a milestone moment shared with friends or family. That physical experience deepens loyalty, while digital gives us scale.
N. Yu Mei emphasizes the power of community through Club Yu Mei, and your beautifully designed retail spaces, what’s the role of these retail spaces for your brand?
J. Our Lounges are our beating heart. They’re not just stores, but spaces for design workshops, panel discussions, dinners, and discovery. Designed in collaboration with Knight Associates, they embody tactile luxury while creating room for conversation and connection. They’re where Club Yu Mei comes to life in the physical world.
N. What’s next for Yu Mei?
J. Our focus is expansion into Australia, we’re testing new retail formats, evolving our product offering, particularly through UTILITY and regenerative materials, and building the Club Yu Mei loyalty programme. The vision is to establish Yu Mei as a global contemporary brand rooted in utility and regeneration.
Yu Mei
8 Kent Street, Newmarket
This article features in our Summer 2025 issue of NEWMARKET. magazine, to view the latest issue, click here.
Tags: Interviews
